24 June 2008
Scrolling straight lines
It is not always easy to cut perfect straight lines and a wobbly line can easily spoil an otherwise great project! Here are some pointers for improving this skill:
- Relax the shoulders and arms and apply gentle, even pressure on the wood with both hands to feed the wood into the blade, but keep the wrists off the table
- Do not force the wood into the blade, allow the blade to do the cutting
- Look slightly ahead to where you are going to cut next, not where you are cutting now, and anticipate when you will need to move your hands
- Be careful not to over-compensate when you veer off the line - return to the line gradually in a fluid movement and continue cutting
- Position your body slightly to the right of the cutting line instead of straight-on
- Change the blade regularly, you cannot cut a straight line with a dull blade
- Ensure that the blade is tensioned adequately or it will tend to 'wander'
- For some scrollers, changing the line color to red or blue makes it easier to see and follow the pattern line
- A magnifier/lamp combination is also helpful for seeing the lines better
- Experiment with the cutting speed. Sometimes a faster speed is preferable for cutting straight lines
- As with any skill, the more you practice, the better you get at it
...so persevere, and remember that despite what I said in the introduction, it is often the "less than perfect" aspects of your project that makes it truly unique!
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10 June 2008
Waxing a cast iron scroll saw table
If you have an aluminium table like I have on my Hegner, then rust is not a problem. A cast iron table, however, can become rough and even show rust if not looked after. One solution is to periodically sand the saw table and apply a wax to keep it smooth. Most people seem to prefer using a paste wax like Johnson's. Other types that were recommended during a recent forum discussion are Minwax, Butchers' bowling alley wax or any woodworkers' paste wax. Do not use wax that contains silicon compounds (i.e. most types of car wax) as that will impair the application of a finish to the wood.
Apply the wax to the table, wait till it forms a film and is dry but not yet hard and then wipe it off. Use a clean cloth and buff the surface. Sanding is not necessary every time. Some other solutions for a smooth table surface:
- Have the table top Teflon coated
- Apply a polyurethane spray varnish specifically intended for metal surfaces
- Secure a piece of glass cut to size on top of the table. A hole is cut out or drilled for the blade
- Rub the table with a crumpled ball of kitchen wax paper or very fine sandpaper
Some people prefer not to have the table too slick - work pieces can slip off the table more easily and tight turns while cutting may become more difficult to execute. If the table is not particularly rough or rusted, then to wax or not to wax becomes a matter of personal choice.
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23 May 2008
Drilling small holes in thicker material
For some projects one needs to drill very small holes in thicker material i.e. 3/4" or 1" wood or MDF. This can present the problem of drill bits breaking easily or veering off to one side in wood with hard and soft variations in the grain. A tiny bit generates a lot of heat in thick wood, causing them to become brittle after some use. A few things to try:
- Buy good quality High Speed Steel (HSS) bits - these are more resistant to the effect of heat, especially when drilling in hardwood
- Other options are tungsten carbide tipped or titanium tipped bits, but they are quite expensive compared to HSS
- Spot the planned holes prior to drilling by tapping with a center punch
- Use a high speed and a 'nibble' action (back out repeatedly to clear the bit's flutes of wood shavings)
- Hold the wood down firmly but gently, with just enough force to keep it from lifting from the table.
- Let the bit do the work, do not apply any force
To read more about various types of drill bits and their uses, go here. At the bottom of this Wikipedia page is also a link to "Drill bit sizes" and a "Drill bit conversion table" listing gauge, inches and mm.
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11 May 2008
Printing patterns larger than A4
A good find:
Some scrollers do not have image manipulation software i.e. Photoshop or PSP and do their printing from Windows Picture & fax viewer. This works fine for any pattern up to A4 or letter size, but some of my patterns i.e. the 'Schwibbogen', are larger than A4. Since Windows Picture & fax viewer reduces larger images to fit on one page, it is not possible to print this kind of project successfully.
After much searching I found an easy to use 'poster printing' program for printing larger patterns. The pattern is divided into pieces and printed on several pages. I have tested it and it works well - freeware and available for download here. Try it! |
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06 May 2008
How to deal with a pattern lifting halfway through the cutting process:
A recent thread on this subject in the SSP group prompted me to collate all the handy tips offered by various contributors and to pass it on :
Say you've already made a few hundred cuts of an intricate pattern and the pattern starts to lift and rip when you make cuts. This can be a tricky problem and may well be crucial to the outcome of your project! Here are some things you can do:
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Try holding the pattern down right next to the blade using the eraser end of a new pencil, or a chisel shaped eraser... and have a duplicate print of the pattern next to you in case the pattern tears off and you need to see where the lines 'would have been' so that you can cut freehand, if needed.
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For small areas lifting, use a toothpick to take a small bit of glue from a glue stick, place it under the lifted pattern piece, press it down and allow it to dry a few minutes.
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For larger areas, cut the pattern away with a scalpel or exacto knife, fold it back, apply the glue and stick it back down.
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Use a dab of rubber cement on a toothpick to reattach it. The cement comes off with a gum eraser when you are finished.
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Inject rubber cement or a similar glue between the pattern and the wood using a syringe with an injection needle.
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If the whole pattern is coming loose...Take some panel pins long enough to go through the wood and still stick out the top, tap them into the pre-drilled openings in various areas of the project. Cut the heads off the pins with pliers. Lift the pattern off over the pins and re-spray the pattern with adhesive. Locate the holes in the pattern over the pins and slide it back down over the wood.
Of course prevention is better than cure, so here are some options for the basic procedure to adhere patterns to wood:
- Print the pattern on plain paper. Some people prefer to use full sheet labels instead, eliminating the need for glue.
- Cover the wood with masking tape, blue painter's tape or packing tape. This keeps the glue off the wood so you do not have to soak the pattern with mineral spirits afterwards or apply heat to remove it.
- Adhere the pattern on top of the tape using glue stick, rubber cement or temporary bond spray adhesive. If you prefer the latter, spray the pattern and not the wood. Work outside or in a well ventilated area. Place scrap paper or newsprint under the pattern. Use a generous spray of glue and wait between 15 and 30 seconds before applying the pattern. Position the pattern on the tape and press down in a few places. Starting in the center and working your way to the sides, smooth out the pattern by hand (or use a cloth) to remove any air bubbles. Work gently so as not to tear the pattern.
- Optional: Apply a layer of clear packing tape over the pattern. When cutting wood that burns easily like oak, cherry and rosewood, wrap the whole work piece with clear packing tape so that it is both on top of the pattern and at the bottom of the work piece - this helps to lubricate the blade and prevents charring in the cuts. If the pattern is not detailed, it can be traced on the wood using carbon paper and a stylus or old ballpoint pen.
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22 April 2008
Scroll saw blades - types and choices
Many questions are received on this topic so I have compiled some basic information for reading and reference:
When one is new to scroll sawing, the choice of blades out there are overwhelming and quite confusing.
Scroll saw blades come in many sizes and styles. Sizes are designated by numbers and range from No 2/0 and No 0 in very fine, to No 1, No 2, No 3 and No 4 in fine, to No 5 and No 7 in medium, and No 8 to No 12 in larger sizes. The standard scroll saw blade length is 5 inches / 130 mm long. Low-end saws often use pin-end blades. These blades restrict the intricacy of internal cuts one is able to make, as a fairly large drill hole is required for the pin to fit through. The ideal blade is pin-less (also known as flat-end blades or plain-end blades). A general rule is to use wider blades with fewer teeth for sawing larger curves and cutting thicker woods and to use narrower blades with more teeth for intricate details in thin woods. Harder substances require larger teeth. A very complex pattern will require a blade with small teeth.
Use a suitable blade as dictated by the wood thickness, amount of cutting detail and sharp radius turns required. Sometimes the choice of blade is dictated by the type of project, for instance inlay work or jigsaw puzzles require using the smallest blade possible so as not to have a wide kerf. If you are using a small blade in thicker wood, be aware that progress will be slow and you'll have to take your time and be patient not to apply too much feeding pressure forcing the wood into the blade.
My blade of choice is the Flying Dutchman skip tooth reverse (FD-SR) for its quality and the smooth cuts they produce. The reverse teeth at the bottom end of the blade eliminates burrs/feathering at the back of hard wood and tear-out at the back of ply wood, reducing the amount of hand sanding required after cutting. A standard blade with no reverse teeth provides more aggressive- and faster cutting than the SR blade, but will leave burrs at the back of the cut, which have to be removed with sandpaper. General guidelines for blade size choices are:
No 2/0 or No 1 for 1/8" / 3 mm wood
No 2 or No 3 for ¼" to 1/2" / 6 mm to 12 mm wood
No 5, No 7 and No 9 for ¾" to 1" / 19 mm to 25 mm wood
No 12 for wood thicker than 1" / 25 mm
The major blade types are:
Standard tooth blades
The teeth are all the same size and distance apart. The two major kinds are wood blades and metal blades. Wood blades have larger teeth and more space between the teeth, designed that way to clear the sawdust as you cut.
Skip-tooth blades
Similar to the standard tooth blades, but every other tooth is missing. The space between teeth is much wider. The design provides for fast sawdust removal and cool and smooth cuts.
- Double-tooth blades
This is a skip-tooth blade with a large space between sets of two teeth. They cut slightly slower but leave a very smooth cut.
- Reverse-tooth blades
Exactly like the regular skip-tooth blade, except the last few bottom teeth point upward. This prevents tear-out or splintering on the bottom of the cut and is especially good to use with plywood.
- Precision-ground blades
This is a skip-tooth blade with small teeth that have been ground to shape, rather than simply filed. They are much sharper, cut in a straight line (unlike any other blades), last longer and leave a very smooth surface. These are very aggressive blades and are quite expensive.
- Spiral-tooth blades
A group of blades twisted together so there are teeth all the way around. You can cut in all directions without turning the wood. They leave a rough surface and a wide kerf, cannot make a tight or sharp corner and have a tendency to stretch with use.
- Crown-tooth blades
The teeth are shaped like a crown with a space between each crown. There is no upside-down with these blades, so they can be put in either way. They cut a little slower than a regular blade but are good for cutting plastic and acrylic.
- Metal cutting blades
Hardened steel are used to make these blades. Metal blades have much smaller teeth and less space between teeth.
- Diamond blades
A wire coated with diamond bits for cutting glass.
Blade Tension:
Setting the proper tension on the blade takes some practice and is best learnt by experimenta tion. One needs to find a balance between too much tension (in which case blades will break) and not enough tension (where the blade wanders and the line of cut cannot be controlled). Certain brands of blades can handle more tension than others and the amount of tension also differs from one blade size to another (smaller blades = less tension, larger blades = more tension). A blade that breaks in its centre before it is dull is normally a sign of over-tensioning. Do not try to get extra life out of a dull blade. As soon as the feed pressure needs to be increased to cut at the same rate as when the blade was new, it is a sign of dulling of the blade. If there is any sign (or smell) of burning in the cut, the blade needs to be changed.
Mike from
mikesworkshop gave some feedback regarding spiral blades. Nowadays a spiral blade is made from a regular flat blade. Before it is hardened, it is twisted and it is only one blade, not a group of blades.
He also had this to say: "I now have a new blade, called FD-UR. It cuts more straight than the PGT blade and last longer. Customers are quite excided about them. Check the testimonials on my web site. Click on "
Blades For Sale".
The Flying Dutchman blades are available from http://www.mikesworkshop.com/
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9 April 2008
Finishing your scroll saw projects
Some people leave their work in its natural state. So why finish?
If the project is going to be displayed, it is sure to collect dust. Cleaning is easier if there is a finish on the project. A finish protects the project, some finishes more than others. It also allows the natural color and grain of the wood to emerge and enhances the beauty of the wood.
Proper preparation is necessary before applying a finish. Pre-sanding the wood before cutting minimizes the amount of sanding to be done later. Once the work pieces are complete, hand sanding is normally the method used but for flat projects without too many fragile cuts, a palm sander or orbital sander can be used. When sanding wood, you can only sand it as smooth as the pores will allow. A stage is reached where you cannot get the wood any smoother irrespective of the grade of sandpaper you use. It may feel smoother, but what is happening is that the fine dust is filling the pores and grain and when you remove this dust prior to applying a finish, the timber will return to its smoothest attainable state.
Always sand with the grain, start with the roughest paper/smallest number (i.e. 80 grit) necessary (depending on the amount of sanding required). Work through the various grits towards the smoothest paper/largest number i.e. 800 grit. Dust down the project between grit changes – I like to use a hard-bristled 2” paintbrush.
The next step is not necessary if you use a liquid/paint-on varnish: Apply Danish oil, Tung oil, lemon oil or boiled linseed oil to the project. I prefer to use a deep penetrating furniture wax liquid instead. Use a medium sized artist’s brush to reach the surfaces of the inside cuts. If the project is small, it can be dipped in the finish. Wipe off the excess using a lint free cloth (old T shirt works well) and allow it to dry. Place it in the sun if possible. This process allows the grain and color to emerge and removes fine dust trapped in the grain of the wood. Once the oil or wax liquid is completely absorbed and dry, the project is ready for spray varnishing.
Various spray varnishes and clear lacquers are available and choices include gloss, semi-gloss and satin finishes. When applying the first coat of some finishes, a raise of the grain occurs (bloom) in varying amounts, depending on the product and the wood. Once dry, the first coat must be sanded down to remove the bloom – use 280 grit – 320 grit paper and sand with the grain. Light coats of finish give better results than heavy coats. Sand in between coats with 280-320 grit sandpaper. Wear a mask to protect yourself from the spray fumes. Spray in a well ventilated area – I always do my spray varnishing outside in the sun (for quick drying). Do make sure that the area is clean and dust free before you spray, you do not want small dust particles adhering to your finish. One way to achieve a dust free environment is to use a large cardboard box on its side as a “spray booth”, with the project placed on a brick inside the box.
You might prefer a liquid finish instead of a spray varnish. The drying time for these finishes is a lot longer and cannot be rushed. They are applied with a brush and there are various types available. Varnish is a reactive finish in that it dries by chemical reaction. Lacquer and shellac are evaporative finishes that dry by the evaporation of the solvent. There are different types of varnishes - alkyd, polyurethane, spar. An alkyd is very slow drying, has a warm color and a moderately hard finish. Polyurethane is faster drying, provides a harder finish, and the color is not as warm as for alkyd. Spar is used for outdoor projects, has a softer finish, is slow drying and has an amber color. Then there are also water based varnish, gel varnish and others. The choice of finish will depend on the appearance you want to achieve and the durability required.
For paint-on finishes, read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Sand in between layers and remove the sanding dust with a soft brush, slightly damp cloth or compressed air before applying the next coat. Generally, three coats are required but for open-grained wood like oak, more coats may be needed to fill the grain for a smooth finish.
If you use a wood stain on the project, first allow the stain to dry thoroughly. Skip the steps for oil/wax liquid and apply either spray varnish or a paint-on finish.
For tons of information and articles on finishing – visit this website: http://www.macsimmons.com/
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30 March 2008
Scwibbogen Patterns
In response to my email about the lighted arches or Schwibbogen patterns, I’ve had numerous requests for more information, so here is a bit of history on the Schwibbogen (as written by Chase Smeeks) as well as places on the web where the mini-lights are available. My patterns are designed for 10 to 20 lights but more lights can be used when the pattern is enlarged
The history of lighted arches or Schwibbogen, originated from the Erzgebirge region of Germany more than 250 years ago.
The Largest Schwibbogen is made of wrought iron and measures 23 feet high and 13 feet wide! This large metal arch stands on the highest point of the Erzgebirge town of Johanngeorgenstadt. The smallest Schwibbogen fits in a matchbox!
The practice of decoratively lighting windows and tabletops with Schwibbogen is gaining favor among all who love Christmas.
Most Schwibbogen are crafted by hand, in small family-owned cottage industries in the Erzgebirge region. Designed with scenes depicting mining towns, landscapes, and religious themes, the Schwibbogen is then given vitality with its integral lighting. Some Schwibbogen use candles for illumination, while others use electric lighting.
The name “Schwibbogen” originates from one of its architectural features, the suspension arch. It is said that the miner and blacksmith, Johann Teller from Johanngeorgenstadt, created the first wrought iron Schwibbogen candleholder in 1726. Travelling through villages and cities of the Erzgebirge region, one will notice lighted Schwibbogen in windows of many buildings. This tradition traces back to the Erzgebirge miners. During the last shift on Christmas Eve, the miners held the traditional “Mettenschicht”, a time when the miners, the foreman, and all the workers hung their lamps on a wall in the shape of a horseshoe. This symbolized the entrance to the mine. From this tradition developed the candle arch, or Schwibbogen. The miners’ yearning for light played a great role in this tradition. During their 10 – 12 hour shifts, the miners saw little daylight, especially during the short days of winter. The miners carved arches of wood for their homes, decorating them with scenes from their village life. The traditional designs and motifs of Schwibbogen have remained relatively unchanged throughout the years. The magic of lit Schwibbogen fills windows and rooms with a warm glow. Schwibbogens remain one of the folk pieces most closely identified with the Erzgebirge region and at Christmas the candle arches of all sizes may be seen adding a festive glow to the towns and villages of that region and reflect another wonderful German Christmas tradition.
Today’s’ Schwibbogen are still very similar to the earlier models, generating the same dazzling effect as in the miners’ days.
Some websites with mini lights - :
- http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/categorydetail.asp?CategoryID=462
15 clear mini lights white wire $2.50
- https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=220
<https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=220&step=4> &step=4
10 clear mini lights white wire $2.00
- https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=221
<https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=221&step=4> &step=4
20 clear mini lights white wire $2.60
- http://www.save-on-crafts.com/chrisligandl.html
35 clear mini lights brown wire $2.09
- http://www.bettyschristmashouse.com/lights/craft.htm
20 clear mini lights white wire $4.50
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17 March 2008
Choosing a Scroll Saw
This will be old news to many of you, but since there have been numerous requests from beginners for info on choosing a saw, here goes:
Scroll saws are available in a variety of brands and models. Some of the better saws are the ‘Excalibur’ manufactured in Canada, the ‘Hawk’ and the ‘Eclipse’ models made in the USA, the German made ‘Hegner’ and the very popular DeWalt saw which was originally manufactured in Canada, but now made in the Far East. There are also a number of mid range and low-end scroll saws offered. These include: Delta, Proxxon, Dremel, Kraft, Craftsman, Jet, Ryobi and others.
Scroll saws can cut a wide variety of materials, including various metals and plastics. Some scroll saws have more capability and capacity to saw thicker and larger sizes of wood than others. The size of the scroll saw is designated by its “throat capacity”, the distance from blade to the rear of the machine. A 15 inch saw, for example, can cut to the centre of a 30 inch diameter circle. The rate at which the blade moves up and down in strokes per minute is called the “blade speed”. Some saws have just one constant speed. Variable speed saws allow for better control when cutting thin or soft materials, as well as the ability to efficiently cut metal and plastic. Some other features are up-front controls, i.e. an on-off switch, blade tensioning, and blade speed adjustment. Many saws offer adaptability in terms of the possibility to add a light, a magnifier or a vacuum nozzle. A foot switch frees up both hands and is often used as an accessory. Another important feature for ease of use is its capability for changing blades quickly and/or threading the blade through the work piece easily for making inside cuts. (A note to scrollers in S.A: Unfortunately our choices are very limited. If the Hegner saw is not within your price range, do try to find a saw that makes use of pin-less blades like the Delta, Proxxon or the Ryobi model with pin-less blade converter. A saw with pin-end blades is really only good for cutting silhouettes without small curves - the size of hole required to thread the pins does not allow for fine fretwork to be done).
There are some other points to consider when choosing a saw. Higher priced saws have additional features and options that improve the overall performance of the machine. Consider the full range of work that might be done with it in the future to see which saw best matches the overall long-term sawing needs. If it will be used on the occasional weekends as a hobby, the most expensive saw is probably not an option. To start a sideline business of scrolled products for sale, consider a saw that has more features and is able to handle the cutting volume. Whether the user is a hobbyist or a professional scroller, the absolute best saw within one’s price range is the most excellent choice!
Some useful links:
DeWalt: www.dewalt.com
Hegner: www.advmachinery.com
Hawk: www.rbiwoodtools.com
Excalibur: www.seyco.com
Eclipse: www.eclipsesaw.com
Delta: http://woodworker.com
Dremel: www.dremel.com
South Africa - www.hardwarecentre.co.za
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28 February 2008
Website feedback
For the last few months you have been receiving notification of updates made to my website. There are now more than 400 patterns available in 26 categories, a variety of Special Offers and a selection of Free Patterns, to which I add regularly. Other links of interest include:
- - The “Tips & Techniques” pages
- - An overview of scroll sawing on the “Scroll Saw Classes” page
- - A Photo Gallery where your completed projects are displayed
I would like to ensure that my site is user-friendly, so at this point I’d really appreciate your honest feedback. Thank you in advance to everyone who takes the time to return replies to my questions!
Please give a short critique, including things like:
- - Ease of navigating around the site
- - Speed at which pages load for you, and what connection you use
- - Quality of graphics
- - If you have made a purchase, how easy the checking out procedure was
- - What type of patterns interests you most? What topics/styles would you like to see more of?
- - Feel free to add any other feedback you would like to mention
